This makes spraying easier when starting with the side of the body. I am not a regular sprayer, so I would advice to take your time and using a flat piece of carton on the ground and make sure the body is placed on 2 or three little objects (like egg cups). I started to spray 3 layers of primer (Motip 1 spray can) and when it was dry I grinded it again with 600. I decided to spray the body glossy black. In both cases it needs a very good grinding starting with 240 than 400 and 600. It is a personal choice to spray the body or to use oil or varnish. I found that the black earth lead was too short, so I connected a longer lead with the initial one. Than I had to drill another hole when mounting the pick ups.
As the tuning knobs would cover the old holes there was no further problem. This went smoothly and I drilled new holes of 2mm.
After drying, I grinded it with the machine using graduation 400. So I used cocktail sticks with wood glue. Especially the holes at the neck, where the tuning knobs are to be placed, didn't all match. I didn't see this as a problem as I dare to say that I am rather handy working with wood. Many pre drilled holes did not correspond. At first I assembled the complete guitar, so that I was able to make alterations if needed. I used a jig saw and after grinding it, it looked cool already. ) At this price point - though it could be a lot better), It would be great start if you want to understand basics of guitar/bass mechanics, start building your own instrument or just want to make a gift for yourself or a friend/kid.Īs soon as I received my P-Bass kit I began to re-shape the neck top. (Though, I am an electrical engineer with decent hand skills and my own guitar tech for over 10 years. For anyone who is confident with their hand skills and arm muscles, can do the job and enjoy the process, in my honest opinion. In short, It was very easy to build, instructions weren't needed. I will change it with a Fender HighMass bridge as I did with my Squier J-Bass. No noise or other electro-mechanical issue with the electronics.īridge is decent but lightweight.
Fender pj bass wiring kit plus#
No soldering is a plus for peeps are not used to that. My long term plan is to drill 3-6mm holes to the pegs to provide some weight relief to fight with the neck diving. Tuning machines are decent, but very heavy. I only needed to polish them to improve playing and look. haha Frets were surprisingly well installed! Kudos! Almost no sharp edges (no more than a short filing/sanding can get rid of). It is like an F-brand bass painted in G-style.
But it is dense, dark and has a nice silky feeling to it. I am still not sure if the fingerboard is an actual wood or a composite material. Neck sealer was a lot better comparing to the body. Before starting the paint job with nitrocellulose spray cans. (I wish I could upload photos here) Sealer wasn't applied well. Lots of small holes and dents on the body due to the selected wood. Body was 4-piece and neck's single piece. With the provided mechanics, it is a neck diver for sure. I can say that the kit has close to decent quality - with a lot of room to improve. My plan was to shape the headstock, paint the body and neck. These CTS pots have a solid, smooth shaft to fit a set-screw knob.I bought this kit as a challenge for myself as well as to enter Thomann's diy kit challenge.